If you're interested in visiting Easter Island aka Isla de Pascua aka Rapa Nui aka "The Navel of the World," be forewarned that it is far, far away from any main airport hub and it will take a while to get there. Lan Chile flights out of Santiago, Chile leave twice weekly, stopping off in Easter Island en route to Tahiti. Your choices for direct flights are either out of Santiago or Papeete, Tahiti. Be sure to book your flights well in advance.
Further, there are limited hotel rooms on the island, and no major American or European chains. The hotels are locally owned due to laws preserving the rights of native Rapa Nui people in landownership. When we were there, there was a big debate among the Rapa Nui elders as to whether or not to allow Club Med to build a resort there. As far as I know, they didn't allow it. Part of the island's charm is the vast expanses of unspoiled land and the ability to see moai around nearly every bend in the road. Most hotels would be classified as "motels" by American standards, or large bed-and-breakfast style guest houses.
We stayed at the Tahatai Hotel, which was not exactly luxurious, but was perfectly fine. The hotel has its own restaurant, a pool, ocean views, and a friendly, accommodating multi-lingual staff who seemed to enjoy having kids in their midst. There were a number of other families staying there while we were there, and we enjoyed our experience.
As in Brazil, we found that having a personal guide was indispensible. We used Kia Koe Tours, and the guide was terrific, able to change gears with a pre-schooler's varying moods. There are also group tours available, but we have found these to be less than ideal for kids with varying levels of tolerance and stamina for hiking. I liked having a guide who was a native who could fill us in on the local politics and gossip as well as the historical facts.
We rented a car for a few days, and found the roads fairly easy to navigate. There are also about a hundred or so taxis on the island, so it's not difficult to call a taxi to take you to various points of interest. Most of the people speak Spanish, Rapa Nui, and some English, so we didn't find language to be a barrier to shopping or getting around the island. Rapa Nui Travel can help book cars, bikes, and excursions for you.
We found the people on Easter Island to be extremely hospitable and welcoming to kids. Our son was three and half when we visited, and he still remembers the moai, though not much else. Shop owners, restaurant workers, and people on the street often stopped to pat him on the head, say hello, and make friends with our little guy, as in other parts of South America.
Due to the lack of tree cover, the sun can be relentless, so be sure to pack high SPF sunscreen, hats, water bottles for day hikes. Most of the hikes we took were not terribly strenuous, but did involve some rocky paths that would not work for the mobility-impaired or for strollers.
The restaurants we visited while on the island were kid friendly, and many had simple kid-favorites like pasta, pizza, tacos, and chicken. For a fine dining experience, we recommend Le Taverne de Pescheur, owned and operated by a Basque fellow and his wife, who serve up locally-caught seafood dishes with a hearty Basque flair.
To make the most of your trip, we recommend going in late January - early February for the Tapati Rapa Nui Festival. The entire island participates in a number of native competitions, from the Birdman Triathalon to moai carving to an all-night team singing contest. The hotels fill up quickly, so be sure to book at least nine months prior. It's the hottest part of the summer in the Southern Hemisphere, so think of it as a great escape from our Northern Hemisphere winters.
Next year, another special event worth making the trip to Easter Island occurs: A total solar eclipse. On July 11, 2010, the eclipse will be visible from Easter Island, with the longest time of totality (4 1/2 minutes) landing in French Polynesia in Tuomotu Archipelago. Easter Island will be a prime viewing spot, and the idea of the mysterious moai surrounded by 360 degrees of twilight is pretty much an ideal time to make your journey. There are a number of tour companies offering including TravelQuest, the company we used for our 2009 eclipse cruise to China, Korea & Japan.
If you go, send me a photo will you? You know how we love eclipses, but sadly, this one is not in the budget!
