The Silent "I"

Food, Glorious Food: What to Eat in St. Lucia

 

St. Lucia offers a variety of food options to suit just about any palate, from the gourmet to the gourmand or the mac-and-cheese-addicted child.  Freshly-caught fish and seafood abound, combined with locally-grown seasonings, vegetables and traditional Caribbean preparations, making for healthy, delicious, and unique culinary experiences.  Some popular dishes are found in different forms on other Caribbean islands, but St. Lucia puts its own twist on food. Even if you think you know what Callaloo or Shark & Bake tastes like, you haven't tried it until you've tasted it here. 

Green Figs & Salt Fish

The national dish of St. Lucia is the dynamic duo known as "green figs and salt fish".  The "figs" are actually unripe bananas, peeled and sauteed with garlic, onions, celery, and peppers.  If the combo of bananas and garlic don't sound appealing, never fear.  Unripened bananas are not sweet and taste more like potatoes than the yellow bananas we're used to putting in cereal and eating as an on-the-go snack.  Unripe, the bananas are much starchier and harder, with less banana flavor. Green Figs & Salt Fish also features salt fish, rinsed thoroughly to drain out most of the salt, then flaked and sauteed with the bananas and vegetables.  It is a hearty, filling meal for lunch or dinner, but I even ate it for breakfast while I was there.  Bananas, green and ripened, are abundant on St. Lucia and are the island's primary crop for export.

Floats & Bakes

"Bakes" are a popular form of bread in St. Lucia, made with a round of plain flour dough that is bake or fried.  When baked, it has a taste similar to English muffins, not sweet, but dense, chewy and hearty.  You can eat them on their own, or with a variety of fillings to form a handy sandwich-like snack. Add a little powdered sugar or jam, and you have a breakfast treat.  Much of the street food sold at markets and stands in St. Lucia has a bake filled with a meat or fish filling.

Shark & Bake

The same dough recipe can be deep-fried to create a "float", a popular base for St. Lucian street food like Shark and Bake.  Shark and Bake, as the name connotes, is a mixture of fish and stewed vegetables eaten as a sandwich.  I'm not sure if the fish meat was actually shark or something else, but it tasted good.  Other islands may have originated and popularize this version of the fish sandwich, but St. Lucians have adapted a version all their own.

Callaloo

Callaloo is a dark green leafy vegetable that comes from the leaves of the taro plant.  St. Lucians use it in place of spinach or kale, and when cooked up, it produces a smoky-flavored addition to fish or seafood dishes.  Combined with mashed dasheen (taro root), the leaves form a thick, green, flavorful soup base for crab or other seafood.  It reminded me of the Seaweed Soup my mom makes, both in taste and texture.  My travel companion, Julia, tried the Callaloo crab soup, which was a little hard to eat since the crab meat had to be extracted from the tiny crab legs.  She said it was worth the effort, even though some of it ended up on her lovely white dress.  I had Callaloo and Snapper at one meal, which was a mixture of snapper sauteed with callaloo leaves.  The leaves were similar in taste to cooked chard or kale, with none of the bitterness. 

Places to Dine

Street Food

Throughout St. Lucia, there are open-air stands selling a variety of ready-to-eat local delicacies, like shark and bake, roast pork, and bakes.  Grab a foil-wrapped Shark & Bake for an inexpensive, hearty meal on the go.  On Friday nights, Trios Restaurant at Bay Gardens Beach Resort offers up their parking lot to a food and music festival called "Calaloo Fridays" with food stands featuring typical street food, the ubiquitous Pitons Beer, music and Carnival bands showing off their elaborate costumes and dance moves. This is a fun and inexpensive way to try out a variety of St. Lucian delicacies. 

Caribbean Fusion

For a fine-dining experience with a pan-Caribbean flair, check out Trios Restaurant at the Bay Gardens Beach Resort in Rodney Bay.  Featuring locally grown fresh vegetables and fresh fish dishes from the sea, Trios offers excellent seafood, jerk-style chicken, and hearty vegetarian dishes in a romantic, tropical setting frequented by locals and visitors alike.  I enjoyed the Crab Chowder served in a coconut shell bowl, with large chunks of crab and vegetable in a coconut-based broth.  The Trios Snapper was served with three sauces that all complemented the fish and mashed sweet potatoes well.  For dessert, try the Fruitcake, which is more the color and consistency of gingerbread than the Christmas doorstop that we think of as fruitcake.

Pumpkin seem to be a favorite ingredient among St. Lucian chefs, who use it for a spicy soup, a base for vegetarian dishes, and for dessert treats like pumpkin pie. 

Indian Food

St. Lucians share a long history of trade with India, and nearly 40% of St. Lucians have some Indian ancestry.  It's only fitting that one of the top new restaurants in St. Lucia is the acclaimed Spice of India. Spice of India offers tradional Indian food served with a dramatic flair.  We had what seemed like a suptuous 90 course meal at Spice of India, and no one at the table could stop eating. From the luscious, creamy butter chicken to flavorful deconstructed samosas to perfectly-grilled tandoori chicken to the deep-fried chocolate cake at the end, every bite was a new twist on some familar Indian dishes.  This is not your mother's chicken tikka masala, and you might not ever want to go back to it after dining at Spice of India.  This restaurant was voted #1 by TripAdvisor, and for good reason: the food is simply out of this world.

If you just can't take all this exotic goodness, and have a hankering for some good old American fast food, there is a KFC, a Domino's and even a Subway in Rodney Bay.  McDonald's, however, has not made it into St. Lucia yet, so you'll have to wait to get to the airport in Miami or New York to get your Big Mac on.

 

 Creme Brulee, Fruitcake & Pumpkin Pie

 

“Travel changes you. As you move through this life and this world you change things slightly, you leave marks behind, however small. And in return, life - and travel - leaves marks on you. Most of the time, those marks - on your body or on your heart - are beautiful.”

                                                                                                        -Anthony Bourdain

 Disclosure: Food and accommodations for my trip to St. Lucia were paid for by Bay Gardens Resorts. I did not receive any additional financial incentive or compensation for writing this post.  All opinions expressed are my own, and do not necessarily reflect the opinions of Bay Gardens Resorts.

Photos: Copyright Glennia Campbell/The Silent I. All Rights Reserved.

Bay Gardens Hotel & Bay Gardens Inn: Affordable Paradise

 Looking for a budget-friendly, charming place to relax in sunny St. Lucia? Check out Bay Gardens Hotel or Bay Gardens Inn.  Both locally-owned and operated properties are part of the same group as the ultra-fab Bay Gardens Resort, but a little farther from the beach and a little easier on the wallet. A great place for solo travelers, honeymooners, a friends' retreat or a family vacation, Bay Gardens Hotel offers a comfortable accommodations and two lovely pools in a lush, green garden setting.

I had the chance to tour Bay Gardens Hotel on my trip to St. Lucia and have a sumptuous lunch at the on-site Spices Restaurant.  Walking into the property, I immediately loved the fun, tropical atmosphere of the chartreuse-colored buildings named after tropical trees like "Pawpaw" and "Sugar Apple".  The courtyard surrounding the pool was bursting with tropical flowers in red and yellow hues.  It's a bright and cheerful place, to say the least. 

 

The lovely travelers: Jordanne Hunter, Donna Owens, and Julia Landry

It was hot and humid when we arrived, and we were all sweating within minutes. Even the calm and collected Miss Waltrude Patrick, the Hotel & Inn's General Manager, was starting to feel the heat after walking around the grounds.  My traveling companions, Jordanne, Donna, and Julia, couldn't resist dipping their toes into the cool and inviting pool at Bay Gardens Hotel.  Miss Patrick later treated us to a Frozen Lime Squash, a non-alcoholic drink made from freshly-squeezed limes and frothy crushed ice. I am not sure what else was in there, but it was a wonderful treat on a hot day.   I am normally not a fan of the sourness of lime, but this was as refreshing as a dip in the cool pool.

 Lunch at Spices was equally delightful, with fresh, locally-grown salads, fruits, and vegetables and a variety of entrees to please any palate.  I had a dorado fish prepared Wellington style, a perfectly cooked-through filet of hearty dorado wrapped in a light puffy pastry shell. The pastry sat atop fresh vegetables on a flavorful, light curry sauce.  My travel companions dined on Pumpkin Soup, a local specialty, and a Caribbean curried chicken that they declared to be "delicious." 

We were joined by the owner, Mrs. Joyce Destang, and other members of the management team.  The hotel is run mostly by women, and their commitment to customer service, quality, and hospitality is evident in everything they do.  I found that St. Lucians are reserved when you first meet them, but are warm and charming and go from strangers to friends quickly.  We started lunch with formal introductions and handshakes; by the end, there were hugs all around.

Bay Gardens Resort & Spa: St. Lucia Hospitality At Its Best

Walking into the Bay Gardens Resort & Spa, you immediately know one thing: You're on vacation.  One of St. Lucia's premiere luxury resorts, Bay Gardens Resort is situated on lovely Rodney Bay, not far from the capitol city of Castries, but in a world all of its own. If you're planning to visit St. Lucia, Bay Gardens Resort should be on the top of your list of accomodations for a fun family vacation, romantic getaway, or a honeymoon trip for memories that will last longer than most marriages.

Step inside, where you'll be greeted by the friendly desk staff, a huge tropical flower arrangement (more like a giant, colorful bush), photos of the flora and fauna of the island, comfy wicker furniture, a gift shop stuffed with island memorabilia and gear, and a delicious island breeze wafting through, and you will quickly realize that it's exactly the way a tropical vacation ought to be. In fact, it would be nice if life were like this all the time. Ever.

I was part of a trio of bloggers and journalists invited to visit Bay Gardens hotels last week as part of a press familiarization tour.  I am not sure how I got so lucky as to be invited, but I'm not one to look a gift horse or a trip to a luxury resort in the mouth, so there I was, a little dazed and confused from the flight, but excited nonetheless.  We were met at the airport by Richard, Activities Manager and Jack-of-All-Trades for the hotel.  Richard had us fill out cards in the van so we didn't need to check-in, gave us our keys so we could go directly to our rooms when we arrived.  He had icy cold bottles of water and fruit for the 1 hour drive to the hotel, located on the opposite end of the island from the airport.  Our friendly driver, Charles, stopped along the way to let us stretch our legs and enjoy the scenic views, and gave a running commentary of what we were seeing along the way.

Bay Gardens Resort  is a 4-star, all-suite luxury resort that is part of a trio of hotels owned and operated by the Destang Family, but this is no mom-and-pop operation.  The Destangs are local St. Lucian's with a long history of investment and involvement in St. Lucian business enterprise. Mrs. Destang was honored by Queen Elizabeth II and named as an Officer of the Most Excellent Order of the British Empire (OBE) for her service to the tourism industry, an honor slightly below Knighthood.  St. Lucia is a British Commonwealth and very few people have this distinction.  After an hour or two at any of the Bay Gardens properties, you understand why these hotels would be fit for a queen.

St. Lucia: Island of Dreams

I spent last weekend as a guest of the Bay Gardens Resorts & Spa on the lovely island of St. Lucia in the Caribbean.  I had not really heard much about St. Lucia before the trip, but what I found there was a little slice of paradise.  I've taken many sunset photos over the years, but this one is one of my favorites.  The sky was not particularly dramatic, but the sun was a bright, golden orb over a tranquil bay.

While waters of the Caribbean were calm, the island teemed with color from the golden, delicate hibiscus to the hearty ginger stalks bursting with vibrant pinks and reds.  Brightly painted houses dot the lush, green tropical landscape, surrounded by the turquoise waters of the Caribbean on one side and the Atlantic on the other.  It's a place that lingers with you long after, a place to dream of when real-life stress and obligations become a little too much. I'm already planning a trip back.

I have a great deal more to say about the fabulous Bay Gardens hotels, the food, the people and more, but this little Photo Friday entry will have to do for now.

Wishing everyone a blissful, dreamy weekend and a little slice of heaven in your own backyard, or wherever you may roam on this big, beautiful planet of ours.

For more virtual travels, check out Delicious Baby's Photo Friday line-up.

Photos: Copyright Glennia Campbell/The Silent I. All Rights Reserved. Taken with a Nikon D90 DSLR.

Hotel Review: Rockhouse, Negril, Jamaica

If you're looking for a peaceful, serene place to contemplate life, swim in a crystal clear blue cove, and rejuvenate your body, mind, and spirit, I can think of no better place than Rockhouse in Negril, Jamaica.  During my recent visit to Jamaica, we were given a tour of the property, and treated to dinner at the delicious Pushcart Restaurant.  While we didn't have a chance to stay there, many of the bloggers in our group expressed a desire to return.

Rockhouse gets it name from its place in the 1970's music scene, when music legends like Bob Marley, Bob Dylan, The Rolling Stones used to frequent the hotel, to escape from the spotlight and relax.  Nestled among the sea cliffs overlooking Pristine Cove (yes, that is what it is called), Rockhouse blends seamlessly into the environment, and offers guests a peaceful, restful oasis from everyday life.

The members of our tour group had a debate over whether we would characterize Rockhouse as "rustic" or "artsy" and I'd have to say a little bit of both.  With the stone exteriors that mirror the rocky cliffs and wooden Adirondack chairs on the deck, I think "rustic." With the colorful interior walls, simple furnishings reminiscent of a yoga retreat, I'd go with "artsy". It reminded me of a lovely inn we once stayed in on a trip to the Galapagos--simultaneously at one with the environment and inviting to humanity.

The hotel features a full-service spa, with all kinds of luxurious treatments in a tranquil setting.  Couples can get side-by-side massages together, either inside or outdoors overlooking the ocean. It's the perfect place to be pampered.

The hotel boutique features locally-made and imported artwork, clothing, and bath products to make your stay more comfortable, or to take home and remind yourself of your time at Rockhouse. I bought a few things to bring home, and I'm torn as to whether to keep them or give them out as gifts. I'm selfish like that sometimes.

The Rockhouse has a swimming pool overlooking the ocean, with cliff-side chairs where visitors can relax and enjoy gorgeous sunsets and ocean views.  For more adventurous spirits, there is a small footbridge that you can dive off, or just take a series of stone staircases down to the water to snorkel under a cave in the amazingly clear waters of the Caribbean.

Chukka Caribbean Adventures: The Ride of Your Life

Hope this isn't really the "final" Chukka

On my recent trip to Jamaica, I had the opportunity to check out Chukka Caribbean Adventures, an adventure sport company that offers horseback riding, dune buggies, ATVs, and ziplining for the adventurous types who don't want to spend their entire vacation vegging out in a lounge chair by (or in) a pool.  Whether or not I'm the "adventurous outdoorsy type" is open to some debate,and a great deal of raucous laughter by all who know me. Sign me up for the "Old Lady Beach Chair Tour," featuring hot cabana boys with an endless supply of frozen drinks with umbrellas in them, and I'll be your spokesmodel forever.

Mr. Ed's More Reticent Cousin, Mr. Fred

The night I arrived in Jamaica, our Jamaica Tourist Board guide and host, Jarron, told me with much delight, "We've arranged for a special horseback ride for the group, followed by going into the ocean on horseback! It's called a 'Ride and Swim'." 

"Great!" I replied, trying to muster up as much enthusiasm as I could, while thinking to myself that this was combining two things that I fear most in life in one neat little package.  I wanted to ask him if maybe we could add on a colonoscopy at the end, just to make it a little more exciting for me, but I held back. I didn't want to appear ungrateful for the opportunity, after all.

Part of my discomfort with horsebacking riding is that large animals tend to scare me.  Maybe it was some cow-tipping trauma in my rural Ohio youth. Maybe it was too many forced viewings of creepy Mister Ed during childhood. I never went through a horse phase like most girls I knew, with the repeated readings and viewings of Black Beauty and My Friend Flicka. Despite living in a farming community, I never participated in 4H livestock raising contests or had any desire to muck out a barn. It just wasn't my thing.

I thought long and hard about the prospect of riding a horse the night before the ride. People have ridden horses for centuries, I thought. They're gentle trail horses, not wild mustangs. I'm sure they don't bite...I'll let them know I'm a lawyer and show them who's boss. Don't mess with me, Seabiscuit, or you'll be on your way to the glue factory by dawn. Random thoughts of a clearly disturbed mind. 

It wasn't actually the horse I was afraid of, it was the fear of falling off and breaking my neck.  Even if I didn't break my neck, what if I fell off and was not able to hoist my ample backside back up on the horse?  What if my horse didn't like me, and was secretly judging me and wishing I'd actually used Weight Watchers for the past year rather than just paying for an online subscription and losing my password? There were a million what-ifs, not many of them good.

I decided that I wasn't going to make a big deal about it, that I would try it, but hope that the Chukka people would understand and let me off I couldn't hack it. I thought I should probably just do it, in the spirit of Nike commercials, bucket lists, and the "feel the fear and do it anyway" crowd. I thought about my son, who's not afraid of anything other than green, leafy vegetables and heard his voice urging me on to try something new.  I steeled my resolve and cheerfully boarded the bus to face my fears and live out some fantasy I didn't know I had to become Dale Evans and Xena Warrior Princess rolled into one.  

Hotel Review: Riu Hotels of Jamaica

During my trip to Jamaica, I was fortunate enough to be hosted by the Riu Hotels & Resorts in both Montego Bay and Negril.  I have to admit, I'd never heard of Riu Hotels prior to the trip, so I wasn't quite sure what to expect.  I'd also never stayed at an "all-inclusive" resort, so I didn't know what to expect with that, either.  I was in for some delightful surprises on both counts.

Riu Hotels are a family-owned chain of resort hotels based in Spain. With over a hundred properties in Europe, the Caribbean, and Mexico, and one in the US, Riu Hotels offer luxury and affodable accomodations at some of the world's best beach destinations.  I will definitely look into Riu for future vacations, now that I am familiar with their accomodations, friendly staff, and their version of what it means to be "all-inclusive."

I arrived at the hotel later than expected, due to a delay in my layover in Miami.  Jamaica is pretty hot and sticky this time of year, but the airy entrance hall with large breezy fans made it seem much more comfortable. The front desk clerk let me know what restaurants were open and that a pizza place would be opening shortly, in case I missed dinner. 

It was a bit of a walk across the sprawling compound to my room, but everything was clearly marked.  The quaint Victorian-style buildings are painted a pale lavendar and white, which gives the compound a story-book feel to it.  When I got to my room, I immediately noticed immediately a towel on the bed that was configured as a swan with tropical flowers adorning it, a cute, welcoming touch. 

I also noticed that there was no minibar with tiny bottles of alcohol inside with exhorbitant prices attached to them.  Instead there was a FULL BAR of full-sized bottles of gin, rum and vodka, hung upside down in a row like IV bottles.  Aside from the gin, rum, vodka, and scotch, there was also  a fully stocked mini-fridge with bottles of soft drinks, water, mixers, and the ubiquitous Red Stripe beer. 

I kept looking for a price list and wondering how they kept track of the large bottles.  Later, I learned that this was also included in the "all-inclusive" price of the room.  I could have had quite a party and didn't even know it (although it would have been a pretty pathetic party since I didn't know anyone at the resort at this point).  My only complaint about this set-up was that I was never able to locate an ice machine, despite several attempts on several floors. I still don't know where they are hidden.

 

Jamaica: Where I Learned the True Meaning of the Word Jerk

I thought I knew what the word jerk meant before I went to Jamaica, but I was wrong.  I learned the true meaning of jerk at Scotchies, an unassuming barbecue restaurant in Montego Bay.  Sure, I've known my share of the human kind, the boorish line-cutting, loud-talking, argue with the umpire kind or as epitomized by a number of men chosen to be contestants The Bachelor.  The kind I'm talking about now is the culinary type, the spicy, slightly sweet and smoky kind of the meat or seafood variety.

Jerk is a national dish and a national obsession in Jamaica. Dating back to the time of slavery, the cooking technique was developed as a method for runaway slaves to cook food without being caught. Traditionally, they would dig a pit, light a fire of sweet wood, then lay the meat on top, covered by a piece of tin, then bury it.  This method allowed little smoke to escape, but made the meat falling-off-the-bone tender.  The technique is similar to the imu used by Hawaiians to cook kahlua pork.

The real secret to jerk isn't the cooking technique as much as it is in the sauce.  When I've had jerk chicken in the US, it was aggressively seasoned with hot pepper sauce that was so hot my tasted buds revolted after a few bites. Not so with real Jamaican Jerk.  The sauce used to marinate the meat is made from a mixture of Scotchbonnet peppers, allspice, and brown sugar.  This is added to some other spices to make a flavorful concoction that is tasty, but doesn't make you want to curl up in a fetal position and cry for your mommy. But, maybe that's just my reaction to hot food.

Since some like it hotter, the meat is served with two extra sauces that can be added to turn up the heat.

Top 5 Things to Do in Jamaica

Last week, I had the distinct honor of joining a dozen other travel and lifestyle bloggers on a tour of Jamaica, sponsored by the Jamaica Tourist Board.  I'm still processing everything we saw and did on the trip, and will write in more detail about it later.  I wanted to share some of the highlights of my trip in photos, and give you some ideas on what to do if you are lucky enough to visit Jamaica. 

My companions and new-found friends on this trip were Zippy of Champagne Living, Linda of Welcome to Linneyville, Tami of Talking with Tami, Jewel of Jewel's Fab Life, Stephanie of Trazzler, Tracey of Solo Traveler, Gayle of Hipster Travel Guide, Nancy of Lost Girls World, Brendan of Brendan's Adventures, and Reid of Dotting the Map.  Rounding out the group was JJ, the official blogger for the Jamaica Tourist Board's Island Buzz Jamaica.  Be sure to check out their blogs over the next few weeks for more tips and photos of our time there.

Here are my Top 5 Things to Do in Jamaica:

1. Shop in a Craft Market

A multitude of Jamaica craft vendors await you at the Old Fort Craft Market, Montego Bay Craft Market and similar markets around the island.  Featuring handmade crafts like hats, jewelry, and original carvings and paintings as well as the usual tourist souvenirs, each vendor has a booth filled to the top with items to remind you of your time in Jamaica.  I had heard that the vendors can be aggressive, but I found them to be friendly and not shy about bargaining.  If you want to exercise your negotiating muscle, you could walk away with some lovely items for a song.  One shopkeeper told me, "I'll tell you my price, and will not be offended by your price."

2. Take a Ride Through the Jungle

 

Chukka Caribbean Adventures offers you the chance to take a nature trail ride on a gentle horse followed by a dip in the ocean on horseback, zoom through the jungle on your own ATV, or take a thrilling ride on a dune buggy up a rocky path to the top of a mountain. If you opt for the dune buggy, like I did, prepare to get dirty as you ford a few streams and giant mud puddles along the way. No worries, though, since there is a shower and changing room at the end of the trail, along with a Jerk stand to get lunch and a bar for frozen refreshments.

Heart of Haiti Campaign

The Clever Girls are at it again, and this time, the cleveristas are putting efforts towards supporting a cause close to my heart: Heart of Haiti, a non-profit dedicate to helping rebuild Haiti.  The group is selling  handmade arts and crafts from Haitian artisans through Macy's Heart of Haiti: Shop for a Better World program.

The program is the brainchild of Fairwinds Trading Company CEO Willa Shalit.  Willa's company is dedicate to bringing the work of artists in developing nations to a wider audience, providing a much-needed source of income and support to people across the globe.  I've bought jewelry and small bags in local shops from Fairwinds, and love that they have turned their attention to the grave situation in Haiti. 

The earthquake that devastated the country on January 12, 2010 made it nearly impossible for many to make a living or rebuild what they had lost.  These artisans found a way to take simple, and often recycled materials, and turn them into a celebration of Haiti's culture, and make a living for themselves.

We have been to several islands in the Carribean over the years, and purchased a number of colorful, decorative items for our home.  The selection in the Heart of Haiti "shop" reminded me of the markets we visited in the Bahamas, St. Maarten, and Aruba. Even if you've never been to Haiti or other islands in the Carribean, you can add a little local flair to your kitchen with colorful bowls, wall art and jewelry from this collection.  By doing so, in a small way, you help the people of Haiti to rebuild after the devastating earthquake of 2010. 

Disclosure: I was selected for this very special “CleverHaiti” opportunity by Clever Girls Collective, which endorses Blog With Integrity. All opinions are my own.